Watches And Wonders 2024 | New Grand Seiko Watches
A quintessential Japanese watchmaking brand, Grand Seiko have brought all their creative flair, precise watchmaking, and signature elegance in abundance to Watches and Wonders 2024. As always, the luxury brand continue to honour their Japanese heritage in their latest creations.
“With every Grand Seiko timepiece honing more than a century of watchmaking experience, owning a Grand Seiko watch is like having a little piece of Japanese culture and beauty with you. Curated by experts, these latest releases from Watches and Wonders expands on what we already knew was special about Grand Seiko; they’re unique, precise, and are designed with an artistic spirit.” – Bruce, Head of Watches.
Crafted in Grand Seiko’s Shizukuishi Studio, nestled amongst the forests and mountains of the Iwate Prefecture, these new timepieces tell the story of the brand’s roots and values whilst featuring an artisanal quality that’s become synonymous with Grand Seiko. Ready to find out what makes these watches so special? Let’s take a look.
Grand Seiko Genbi Valley
Supplier code: SLGH021G
Joining the Evolution 9 collection, the Grand Seiko Genbi Valley watch showcases a masterfully crafted textured green dial, an ode to the Genbi Valley, close to the Shizukuishi Studio. The colours are inspired by the vegetation along the Iwai river, a new design that honours the flourishing life and natural beauty through the Iwate Prefecture.
Last year at Watches and Wonders 2023, we saw the release of the Majestic Birch watch, echoing the forest of white birch trees at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains. This year, Grand Seiko are furthering their journey into another of Japan’s natural monuments, and into the wild greenery of the Genbi valley.
Limited to only 1,000 pieces, this elegant timepiece boasts an equally beautiful mechanical automatic movement, the 9SA5 calibre, with a power reserve of 80 hours. With exceptional levels of accuracy, this movement is precise to +5 to -3 seconds per day, and the mechanism can be seen ticking away through the sapphire crystal case back.
Described by the brand as ‘the best Grand Seiko movement ever created’, the 9SA5 calibre was created entirely in-house. Featuring a dual impulse escapement, a new overcoil, twin barrels, and a new ‘date-finger’, as well as many other advanced components, the mechanism is manufactured at the highest level of horological standards by watchmaking experts.
“Quintessentially Grand Seiko in style, the piece combines influences from Japanese nature, brand heritage and Takumi technical precision with a GPHG award-winning hi beat 9SA5 movement.” - Grand Seiko.
“With pastel-coloured dials being a bestselling trend for the brand’s UK watch collectors, this model demonstrates the theme of Grand Seiko’s exposition design for 2024: Evolution 9 (e-9). Takumi designers of e-9 watches built on the 1967 44GS brand heritage design framework with nine modernisations in three areas: comfort, aesthetics and legibility.” - Grand Seiko.
We’ve seen green dials take over the world of luxury watches recently, and it’s a sight to behold. We think this Grand Seiko watch truly stands out, with a meticulously engraved design that resembles the curvatures and textures of the Japanese wild plants. This refreshing take on a trend we’re loving (now, and forever) also offers a lighter, pastel hue with a refined radiance we can’t take our eyes off.
The stunning dial is housed by a 40mm stainless steel case, complete with a matching bracelet. With dial accents showcasing the same silvery tone, the dial really is a shining tribute to the ethereal Japanese landscape. The confident lines, powerful presence, and understated design resembles everything that the Evolution 9 collection represents.
"We have different technologies, we have mechanical, first class mechanical watches, we have spring drive which is a unique technology, nobody else has this technology – spring drive with its lovely glide motion wheel with a gliding smooth sweep second hand, and finally quartz, which we shouldn’t forget, we were the first company to launch the quartz watch back in 1969 and we’re still making fantastic quartz watches today, super accurate up to five seconds a year." - Rob Wilson, Grand Seiko Service Manager.
Availability of this watch at Beaverbrooks is yet to be confirmed, so if you can't wait any longer, shop similar styles in the Evolution 9 collection.
Calibre 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition watch
Supplier code: SBGC275
Say hello to the latest member of the Sport collection, the Grand Seiko Caliber 9R 20th Anniversary Limited Edition watch. Celebrating the 20th anniversary of Grand Seiko’s calibre 9R, the movement driving this striking model is the Spring Drive chronograph GMT calibre 9R86, with an accuracy within 0.5 seconds per day and 72-hour power reserve. It truly is a masterful invention.
Want to see something really show-stopping? Take a look at the dial on this beautiful model, with colour-changing qualities to represent the shifting hues of a Shinshu sunrise against the Hotaka landscape – a mountain range in Japan close to where the Grand Seiko Spring Drive creations are made. New dial processing technology, known as “Optical Multilayer Coating” is patented by Grand Seiko, where layers of nanoscale film are placed on the dial to create different hues depending on the angle and position of the watch. Showcasing the brand’s values of combining both function and beauty, the dial represents the transition of summer mornings by transforming from pink to orange. Influenced by the Japanese appreciation for the transition of time, Grand Seiko have created a sunrise in a watch, and we’re obsessed with its ethereal design.
Limited to 700 pieces, it’s all in the details with this timepiece. The 44.5mm titanium case is angular and powerful, inspired by the lion. The inclusion of the king of the jungle is reminiscent of a Grand Seiko vision from the 1960s, since the very first watch. The brand’s aim was to become the king of the watchmaking world, and their ambition was, and still is, to create the most precise, durable and beautiful watches possible, embodying courage and strength in every part of their craftsmanship. Reflecting the lion in the claw-like case and hairline-finished lugs, the durability of this timepiece is reflected in its 200m water resistance, and prominent place in the Sport collection. It’s a watch for any sporting situation.
Availability of this watch at Beaverbrooks is yet to be confirmed, so if you can't wait any longer, shop similar styles in the Sport collection.
Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon
Supplier code: SLGT005
Flawlessly combining Japanese culture, a playful contrast between night and day, and skilful construction, this Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-force Tourbillon watch perfectly complements a previous 2022 Masterpiece model. Two years ago, Grand Seiko’s first mechanical complication, combining a tourbillon and constant-force mechanism as one unit on a single access was released – the first of its kind in horological history. Resembling the darkness of night, the timepiece was awarded the Chronometry prize at this year’s Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève.
This watch continues the story of the previous model, but unlike the original, it evokes daybreak, completing this portrayal of light. Reflecting the contrast of light and shadow with its silver tone components, different materials and finishings, and skeleton dial which allows light to penetrate the design. The 43.8mm case is a blend of the patented Brilliant Hard Titanium alloy outer case and 950 platinum inner case, and paired with a light leather strap with a unique spotted texture, specially treated in the same traditional way once used in samurai armour.
With the calibre 9ST1 at the heart of this timepiece, the tourbillon and constant-force carriage are a stand-out part of the 340 component mechanism, which can be seen ticking through the skeleton dial and case back. Limited to just 20 pieces, the 72-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance prove that this watch is just as spectacular on the inside as it is on the outside. The unique strap and open work structure is a beautiful blend of elegance with mechanical features for a truly fascinating look we love.
White Birch Bark Watch
Supplier codes; SLGW002, SLGW002
Bringing a dress watch aesthetic to the Evolution 9 collection are the White Birch Bark watches, furthering the exploration of the trees close to the Grand Seiko studio, similar to the model we saw at Watches and Wonders 2023. The captivating dial showcases a multi-dimensional texture, resembling the Silver Birch and natural beauty of the Japanese forest. Creating a refined experience of nature and time, the elegant design and ultra-precise movement make this model truly unique.
For the first time in 50 years, these watches are brining something special back to the lineage of Grand Seiko timepieces: a new, high-beat manual mechanical movement. Reviving the pleasure of manually winding a watch, this movement, the calibre 9SA4, is nostalgic of the 10-beat manual mechanical movements of the ‘60s and ’70s. The dual escapement and two barrels, Grand Seiko free-sprung balance and a hairspring with overcoil are what keeps this 10-beat movement ticking harmoniously, boasting a power reserve of 80 hours. Displayed through the skeleton case back, you’ll also find a power reserve indicator and movement click in the shape of a wagtail bird, a species commonly found in the Japanese city of Morioka.
"Although we’ve had Birch Bark featuring in our watches before, it’s the first time we’ve had the horizontal pattern. To create this pattern is a very lengthy process, and approximately 20 stages are gone through to create the dial, but in fact it’s the moles that make the dial in the first place that have to be right, this can take months and months to create the mole that looks just right, just like a birch tree itself." - Rob Wilson, Grand Seiko Service Manager.
Accompanied by a crocodile leather strap, this timepiece comes in two versions; one crafted in Brilliant Hard Titanium, and the other in 18ct rose gold – the rose gold model is limited edition with only 80 pieces. The 38.6mm case provides a thickness of 9.95mm, slimmed down and elongated indexes, and narrower lugs, all altered to give this model a sense of refined elegance. Paired with a crocodile leather strap, we love all the vintage, luxurious details.
"The watch I’m most excited about is the Birch Bark and this watch has a new movement in it, and this is a manual wind movement. We’ve launched an automatic movement before, but this is the first time since 1965 that we’ve had a manual wind movement in a high beat watch. High beat’s a lovely feature to have in a watch, it makes the watch more stable, more accurate, and as well as that you have the added advantage of the second hand is very, very smooth in operation, so most watches beat at 28,800 beats per hour, this is 36,000 so significantly faster and better. It also has an 80 hour power reserve, and the one feature that I really like about this watch is the winding. When you wind the watch up, you can see through the glass back there’s a bird inside that’s shaped for the click which stops the mainspring unwinding and this is a lovely little feature to have on a watch, as you wind the watch up you can see the bird clicking in and out like a bird pecking and I like that feature." - Rob Wilson, Grand Seiko Service Manager.
White Lion III
Supplier code: SBGD215J
Designed with the influence of the emblematic Grand Seiko lion, this White Lion III watch is limited to only pieces. Exclusive and wonderfully luxurious, it’s a desirable timepiece for longstanding Grand Seiko collections and fans. With a platinum 44.5mm case, beautiful embellishment of blue sapphires and diamonds, and hand-carved engraving, it truly is a work of art. Powered by the Spring Drive movement calibre 9801 with a power reserve of 192 hours and accurate within 0.5 seconds per day, it’s a one-of-a-kind watch for sure.
Tokyo Lion
Supplier code: SBGE307G
Exuding the Tokyo lion with powerful and fearless design, this timepiece is crafted in a 44.5mm high-intensity titanium case and has a water resistance of 200m for the signature resilience of a Grand Seiko sports watch. Roaring this timepiece into action is the 9R66 Calibre Spring Drive movement, with a power reserve of 72 hours, GMT function and open case back, housed in a statement design. The shining white dial is patterned to echo the texture of a lion’s mane, and we love the intricate detailing and artisanal features that this watch evokes.
Sekkei Snow Valley
Supplier code: SBGJ277G
Inspired by high summer in the Japanese mountains, this Sekkei Snow Valley watch is joining the Sports collection. With earthy green hues protruding from the striking white details, the colour resembles the lingering snow from winter days in the beautiful Japanese landscape. Crafted with a 44.3mm stainless steel case, matching bracelet, and with a triple time zone GMT function, this watch is certain to take your timekeeping up a gear. And with the calibre 9S86 automatic movement providing a power reserve of 55 hours, you can trust this timepiece all day, every day.
Starry Night
Supplier code: SBGW314J
Limited to 50 pieces, this watch is inspired by the famous Van Gogh painting of the same name. With deep blue shimmery hues on the dial and strap, you can get lost in the enchanting aesthetic of this timepiece just as easily as a majestic starry sky. Echoing the very first Grand Seiko proportions with its 38mm case, the 18ct rose gold construction adds statement luxury to its beautiful design. Driven by the calibre 9S86 manual movement, the skeleton case back makes for a sight as wondrous as the watch front. We love the classic elegance from the 18ct rose gold and crocodile leather strap combination, for a double dose of indulgent colour.
Availability of this watch at Beaverbrooks is yet to be confirmed, so if you can't wait any longer, shop similar styles in the Elegance collection.
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Our watch expert’s verdict
Things we like
✔ The watches pay homage to the brand’s legacy and natural beauty of Japan
✔ The accurate and precise standards of the Grand Seiko movements
✔ The paste coloured dial
Perfect for
✔ Those looking for a watch with a Japanese flair
✔ Those looking for artisanal, expertly crafted watchmaking
✔ A watch with meaning
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